Sunday, June 2, 2013

The Perfect Loaf


 After making my first natural yeast loaf of bread, the levain, P-Dee, became too powerful. While I was on vacation from work and enjoying a day of junk shopping in Hot Springs, I decided to search for a crock. In the old days, levains were kept in a crock. I have read that this is better because the insulation of the pottery keeps the yeast culture at a more consistent temperature, protecting it from frostbite in the refrigerator. The only downside is that you cannot see what is going on below the surface. I decided if I could find a reasonably priced crock, I would switch from glass.

On Amazon, crocks cost as much as $80 dollars, with some in the $30-$40 range. This is steep for a first-year teacher on a budget plan to eliminate debt. So a day of junk shopping with my mom in Hot Springs seemed the best bet. The first store supplied two options, both beautiful, but slightly too large and still $35. The next shop was better priced, but the crocks were huge ($20). Finally, we arrived at Re-Store, one of my favorite places. They collect donations from individuals and builders alike and supply anything from appliances and furniture to books and dishes. This was the jackpot, or the crock pot. We found several choices and for less than $10. So for $5, I bought a nice sized crock. 

The timing was perfect, too. When I arrived home, P-Dee had exploded! She was growing so fast, that just hours after feeding led to an overflow. I pulled Whea-D out of the fridge for a last inspection and decided to throw her out. I combined my strategies. I fed P-Dee with whole wheat flour this time, and placed her in the new crock, and in the fridge. Finally, everything was running smooth. This was the birth of D, the fourth and final approach to a successful levain (one that is sustainable in the fridge). In addition to this success, the flavor has mellowed out.

Since the creation of D, there have been two successful loaves of bread and a very successful batch of whole wheat blueberry pancakes. The last two loaves also included honey, to try to sweeten the flavor a little. While much milder, the bread still has a unique flavor. 

I have found success in these simple steps:
  • if using tap water, allow to sit for at least 24 hours to let any chlorine bubble out
  • use whole wheat flour, only if the container will remain in the fridge, and buy organic if available
  • use a scale to measure equal parts according to weight, not volume (I use 8 oz. levain, 8 oz. water, and 8 oz. whole wheat flour - this leaves me almost 16 oz. of levain to use before each feeding too.)
  • remember to put a breathable cover on the container to prevent hardening and explosions
  • use a crock to maintain better temperatures
  • feed at least twice per week (I do Wednesday and Sunday)

 In terms of making bread, I have developed this recipe based on the previously mentioned websites:  3 oz. levain, 11.5 oz. water, 1.5 oz. honey, and 17-18 oz. whole wheat flour. Put the first three ingredients into a mixer on low until dissolved. Add about half the flour, mixing on low. Attach dough hook if available. Continue adding flour until the dough pulls away from the sides. The tricky part is the kneading. What works for me is to use the dough hook in the mixer alternating between stir, 2, and 4 (the three lowest settings on my mixer). I tried to time it, and it took about 10-15 minutes before the dough passed the window test. This is when the dough stretches instead of breaks. If it broke too soon, I turned it back to 4 for a minute, then to 2, then to stir, and checked again. I then hand kneaded a few times. (When dealing with wheat dough, the natural yeast book had some great advice:  use water to wet your surface and hands, not flour. Flour will dry the dough out more and whole wheat flour creates tiny tears in the surface. The kneading technique they use, since it is a little tougher than normal dough is the "French Slap." Grab one edge of the dough, sling the other end away from you and up, then slap it on the counter-top and fold the piece you are holding over the top. Grab the edge perpendicular to you, rotate, and repeat. Just watch out for the angry husband who comes stumbling out of the bedroom to ask "What the heck are you doing in here?" It also might scare animals.) After forming a nice large ball, I place it in an oiled bowl, cover with a warm, damp towel and place it in the oven. (If it is cold, you can turn on your oven light to warm up a little, otherwise a room temperature oven is fine.) 6-8 hours later, it should have doubled in size. Gently remove it to a wet surface, fold in the corners to create a small rectangle, and place seam down in an oiled loaf pan. Again, wait for it to double, about 2-4 hours, then bake at 375 for 30 minutes. Let it cool for about 30 minutes if your impatient, or for 3 hours if you want to preserve the moisture inside the loaf. Eat within 5 days, or refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

So far, this has been a fun and tasty adventure. I am so proud of discovering an almost extinct technique (at least to American households). Why choose between expensive bakery bread (most of which still uses commercial yeast) and flavorless factory bread? Get flavor, health, savings, and a hobby!

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